Ploen Patterns/Better Fit Academy

Better Fit Academy

Get the most out of your sewing patterns - learn which fit alterations you need to create the perfect fit for your body!

This is a self-paced course with everything you need to make the necessary pattern adjustments to create the perfect fit - every time.

The COMPLETE GUIDE to solve any fit issue in a structured and fun way!

You will also be able to join the free community where you can post photos/videos of your toiles and get personalized fitting feedback.

  • €597 or 4 monthly payments of €155

Better Fit Academy

  • Course
  • 91 Lessons

Learn how to confidently make pattern alterations to make any sewing pattern fit YOU! Learn the Better Fit Method, and gain access to a complete library of pattern alteration videos for tops, blouses, trousers, skirts, sleeves & knit garments.

Lifetime Access - Self Paced Course

Instant access to the complete library of fit alterations. You will learn how to determine which pattern alterations you need and how to implement them. You will learn a structured method that takes you step-by-step through everything you need to do to achieve the best fit for YOUR body. It's a beginner-friendly setup where you will get a lot of personalized feedback from Josefine. She will hold your hand all the way through and make sure you understand everything!

Stop the guesswork and start learning the best way to make any sewing pattern fit YOU the way you want it to - with the Better Fit Method.

Meet Liz:

Going back to basics has taught Liz a lot and she’s now more confident when trying a new sewing pattern!

Meet Kendra:

Kendra is inspired to make more clothes for herself and to finally have a teacher who is invested in her success! She loves connecting with other sewists in the live Q&A sessions.

Preview

Get started!

Welcome to Better Fit Academy!
Preview
Join the Community!
What you will need:

The Better Fit Method

3 steps to create a better fit. Prepare, Test & Implement!

The Better Fit Method - Overview
Better Fit Method - Checklist.pdf

1: Prepare

This is the base - prepare and lay the groundwork for your project and your result will be so much better for it. Perfect fit doesn’t come without planning!

How to take your measurements
Preview
Determine your cup size
Sewing cup sizes (PDF)
Understanding Ease
Preview
Ease: How to measure a pattern
Ease: How to measure a garment
Ease - standard guidelines for different types of garments (woven)
Choose a size
Grading between sizes
Fabric choice
How fabric choices affect fit

2: Test

The test run is the very heart of creating a perfect fitting garment. This is where you create the best fit, perfectly adjusted to your body shape - every time!

Make a paper toile
Make a fabric toile
Cut & mark your fabric toile
Toile example (part of garment)
How to fit a toile on yourself
Preview
Fit issues indicators - what to look for
Fitting a toile - Example 1 (Blouse)
Fitting a toile - Example 2 (Dress)

3: Implement

Implement the changes and adjustments and make your perfect fitting garments a reality! This is where you finalize your findings and actually make it happen.

Is it a size problem or a fit problem?
Transfer your changes to the pattern
Tips for adjusting patterns
Should I be concerned about over-fitting?

Homework - Make a toile!

Homework - Make a toile

Bodice - bust adjustments

Bodice pattern adjustments - which order?
Understanding darts
Do you need a FBA?
Preview
FBA examples.pdf
Calculate your FBA
How to make a FBA C, D & maybe E cup)
FBA (cup size E, F, G etc)
Full bust adjustment on a princess seam bodice
How to split a dart in two
How to true a dart
FBA - add a dart to a dartless bodice
Do you need a SBA?
SBA-Examples.pdf
Calculate your SBA
Small bust adjustment (bust and waist darts)
Small bust adjustment on a dartless bodice
SBA on a princess seam bodice

Bodice - back & shoulder adjustments

Adjust shoulder slope (inner shoulder gaping)
Adjust shoulder slope (outer shoulder gaping)
Adjusting shoulder seam angle
Rounded upper back or prominent shoulder blades?
Prominent shoulder blades
Rounded upper back
Sway back adjustment
Sway back adjustment on a panelled dress
Narrow shoulder adjustment

Bodice - Length adjustments

Lengthening bodice (above bust)
Lengthening bodice (below bust)
Shortening bodice (above bust)
Preview
Gaping neckline
Shortening a raglan bodice

Bodice - sleeves & armholes

Coming soon

Understanding the sleeve pattern
Adjusting sleeve to match lengthened bodice
Add width to bicep
Shoulder and sleeve cap example

Fitting trousers - Top Down Center Out Method

Top Down Center Out Method - Introduction
TDCO - the steps
Trouser adjustments - which order?

Trousers - traditional fitting method

Introduction
Choosing a size
What are acceptable drag lines?
Adjust crotch seam length (front)
Adjust crotch seam length (back)
Add width at crotch (remove whiskers)
Scoop the crotch (front and back)

Skirts

Choosing a size
Full butt adjustment example
Skirt: Full butt adjustment
Skirt riding up (too tight)

Knits - negative ease & stretch fabrics

How to find your bust apex
Understanding negative ease
Tips for Fitting Knit Garments with Negative Ease
Stretch test (PDF)
Stretch test

Recommended book list

Book recommendations

Q&A Replays

Live Q&A May 9th 2024
Live Q&A May 20th 2024
Live Q&A June 7th 2024
Replay November 28th 2024
Replay December 5th 2024

What do you think about Better Fit Academy?

All feedback is much appreciated. Together we can make sure the lessons are at comprehensive and clear as possible!

Let me know what you think!

BONUS

Bonus - pattern hacking

Meet Your Teacher:

Josefine Hultén is a creative pattern maker from Stockholm, Sweden. She started sewing clothes when she was 9 years old and hasn't stopped since. She works as a garment technician in the fashion industry and she's been designing sewing patterns for home sewers since 2017 at her company Ploen Patterns. She has attended countless sample fitting sessions and she is so excited to be able to share her knowledge with you!

Her passion for sustainability led her to want to teach more people to learn to sew and make clothes so they don’t have to depend on fast fashion. She wants everyone to be able to make garments that fit them - regardless of their size, body shape, and height.
She loves to make dresses and her designs are often inspired by vintage fashion - with a modern touch. The dress in this photo is made from a vintage bedsheet!
Josefine lives in Stockholm with her partner and young daughter and her favorite place to spend time is in her home studio... designing, pattern making, sewing, and of course making instructional and inspiring videos and blog posts for her followers all around the world!

Frequently asked questions

Can't find the answer to your question? Get in touch!
💌 josefine@ploenpatterns.com

Who is Better Fit Academy for?

You are tired of the guesswork and just want to finally be able to make any sewing pattern you try fit YOU. You want to confidently be able to determine which pattern alterations you need and how to implement them. You want to be proud of the garments you make and wear them. You want to be able to use your fancy fabrics that have been sitting in a pile unused because you're not sure how to make clothes that fit your body. And last but not least you want to have fun along the way during this journey!

I'm a beginner - is this course right for me?

Yes! Even if you've only made a few garments you will benefit massively from learning how to create a better fit from an early stage. There's no such thing as learning pattern alterations too soon. And the best part is - you can come back to the material again and again as your skills develop.

I already know some pattern drafting and altering - can I join?

Yes! Some things we go through in the course will be repetition for you but some things will probably be new! I would encourage you to join if you are looking to dive deeper into pattern alterations and devote some time and energy to getting the perfect fit. You will get lots of motivation and you can get feedback from me and accelerate your learning!

Will this course teach me how to sew?

No. I will not teach you how to use a sewing machine - that's something you need to know already (or have plans to learn). I will teach you how to make pattern alterations and develop a great process for how to make toiles/muslins and how to approach your sewing projects to achieve the best result possible for you.

How long do I have access to Better Fit Academy?

You have lifetime access! You will have instant access to all the material and also any updates, improvements, and/or added modules, forever!

What if I don't have time for this course right now?

You can work through the material whenever you like and have time. You have lifetime access! You can come back to it time and time again, whenever you like.

Who is this course designed for?

This course is designed for sewists of all levels who want to improve their pattern alteration and fit adjustment skills. Whether you're a beginner looking to learn the basics or an experienced sewist aiming to fine-tune your techniques, this course provides valuable insights and practical instruction as well as personal feedback.

What format are the course materials presented in?

The course materials are presented through a mix of video lessons, downloadable resources, and text lessons. Better Fit Academy is designed to teach you the most important steps you need to create a better fit for YOUR body, presented in the most easily digestible format. So that you can take the knowledge and apply it straight away.

What sets this course apart from other pattern alteration courses?

Better Fit Academy is special because you will get personal feedback and the ability to check with me if you're on the right track whenever you need it. With most online courses you buy it and are left to your own devices. The heart of Better Fit Academy is the close connection to your teacher (me!) I have decided on this approach because I think it will give you the best result as quickly as possible. It's going to be like having a private tutor, but for a fraction of the cost. Like going to fashion school but with a focus on YOUR body instead of standard measurements.

What happens if I'm not satisfied with the course?

Your satisfaction is important to me. If you find the course doesn't meet your expectations, please let me know so we can discuss how to address your concerns. If you have watched the lessons and implemented the method and you still feel like Better Fit Academy didn't give you the results you were looking for - I have a 100% money-back guarantee.

Can I ask questions or seek help whenever I need it?

Absolutely! You're welcome to email me with any questions you have throughout the course. I'm here to support you in your learning journey. You will also be able to leave comments under the lessons inside the course platform. I will reply as quickly as I can :)

  • €597 or 4 monthly payments of €155

Better Fit Academy

  • Course
  • 91 Lessons

Learn how to confidently make pattern alterations to make any sewing pattern fit YOU! Learn the Better Fit Method, and gain access to a complete library of pattern alteration videos for tops, blouses, trousers, skirts, sleeves & knit garments.

Testimonials

Eva, Austria

I like that the lessons are short and to the point. I can learn when I have 10 minutes to spare or I can binge watch lessons when I have more time. The community and live Q&A sessions are a nice aspect. I love connecting with other people who sew!

Kendra, USA

I think the video lessons are great and I have gotten so much help from Josefine whenever I have a question. She's taking care of me as a student and I can always reach her when I need help or feedback. I'm impressed with the course materials and I'm so happy I signed up!

Liz, Australia

I’m a lot more confident now after I’ve been through the course. I can see why some of my previous projects didn’t fit the way I wanted them to and I’m excited to give them another go!