Better Fit Academy
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Welcome to Better Fit Academy!
Join the Community!
What you will need:
The Better Fit Method

The Better Fit Method - Overview
Better Fit Method - Checklist.pdf
1: Prepare

How to take your measurements
Determine your cup size
Sewing cup sizes (PDF)
Understanding Ease
Ease: How to measure a pattern
Ease: How to measure a garment
Ease - standard guidelines for different types of garments (woven)
Choose a size
Grading between sizes
Fabric choice
How fabric choices affect fit
2: Test

Make a paper toile
Make a fabric toile
Cut & mark your fabric toile
Toile example (part of garment)
How to fit a toile on yourself
Fit issues indicators - what to look for
Fitting a toile - Example 1 (Blouse)
Fitting a toile - Example 2 (Dress)
3: Implement

Is it a size problem or a fit problem?
Transfer your changes to the pattern
Tips for adjusting patterns
Should I be concerned about over-fitting?
Homework - Make a toile!

Homework - Make a toile
Bodice - bust adjustments

Bodice pattern adjustments - which order?
Understanding darts
Do you need a FBA?
FBA examples.pdf
Calculate your FBA
How to make a FBA C, D & maybe E cup)
FBA (cup size E, F, G etc)
Full bust adjustment on a princess seam bodice
How to split a dart in two
How to true a dart
FBA - add a dart to a dartless bodice
Do you need a SBA?
SBA-Examples.pdf
Calculate your SBA
Small bust adjustment (bust and waist darts)
Small bust adjustment on a dartless bodice
SBA on a princess seam bodice
Bodice - back & shoulder adjustments

Adjust shoulder slope (inner shoulder gaping)
Adjust shoulder slope (outer shoulder gaping)
Adjusting shoulder seam angle
Rounded upper back or prominent shoulder blades?
Prominent shoulder blades
Rounded upper back
Sway back adjustment
Sway back adjustment on a panelled dress
Narrow shoulder adjustment
Bodice - Length adjustments

Lengthening bodice (above bust)
Lengthening bodice (below bust)
Shortening bodice (above bust)
Gaping neckline
Shortening a raglan bodice
Bodice - sleeves & armholes

Understanding the sleeve pattern
Adjusting sleeve to match lengthened bodice
Add width to bicep
Shoulder and sleeve cap example
Fitting trousers - Top Down Center Out Method

Top Down Center Out Method - Introduction
TDCO - the steps
Trouser adjustments - which order?
Trousers - traditional fitting method

Introduction
Choosing a size
What are acceptable drag lines?
Adjust crotch seam length (front)
Adjust crotch seam length (back)
Add width at crotch (remove whiskers)
Scoop the crotch (front and back)
Skirts

Choosing a size
Full butt adjustment example
Skirt: Full butt adjustment
Skirt riding up (too tight)
Knits - negative ease & stretch fabrics

How to find your bust apex
Understanding negative ease
Tips for Fitting Knit Garments with Negative Ease
Stretch test (PDF)
Stretch test
Recommended book list

Book recommendations
Q&A Replays

Live Q&A May 9th 2024
Live Q&A May 20th 2024
Live Q&A June 7th 2024
Replay November 28th 2024
Replay December 5th 2024
What do you think about Better Fit Academy?

Let me know what you think!
BONUS

Bonus - pattern hacking

Knits - negative ease & stretch fabrics

5 Lessons